The helix is the piercing almost everyone gets as their first cartilage piercing, and for good reason. It looks lovely on its own, but it really comes to life in an ear stack full of hoops, studs and tiny stones. Which types there are, which jewelry suits it best and how long it takes before you can switch to your dream piece: you'll find it all below, no sugarcoating.
What is a helix piercing?
A helix piercing is a piercing through the cartilage along the upper outer rim of your ear. The word comes from the Greek helix, meaning spiral, after the curved rim your ear forms at the top. Unlike a hole in your earlobe, a helix goes through cartilage, which makes getting it done and healing it a little different.
Precisely because there's so much room on that rim, you can get several next to each other and play endlessly with hoops, studs and tiny stones. That's where its popularity comes from.
The types of helix piercings at a glance
Helix is an umbrella term. Exactly where on the rim the piercing sits determines what it's called. These are the variations you'll come across most often.
Standard helix
The classic helix sits high on the outer rim of your ear. This is the version most people mean when they say "a helix" and the easiest place to start.
Forward helix
The forward helix sits at the front of your ear, close to your face where the cartilage meets your temple. It's more subtle than a regular helix and is often worn with a tiny stud or small hoop. Many people get two or three stacked underneath each other for a little staircase effect.
Hidden helix
The hidden helix is tucked away in the fold at the top of your ear, so you mostly see the stone and barely any of the jewelry around it. A great choice if you love minimal. We wrote a separate article about it: read all about the hidden helix piercing.
Double and triple helix
With a double or triple helix you get two or three holes right above each other on the rim. Lovely for stacking with, for example, a hoop, a solitaire and a tiny stud in one line.
Flat helix
The flat helix sits on the flat part of the cartilage a bit further in, just below the upper rim. Thanks to that flat surface, a bigger stone or a little flower looks stunning here.
Mid and low helix
Mid and low helix simply refer to the height: halfway along the rim or lower down, towards your earlobe. Handy to know if you want to build your stack from top to bottom.
Vertical and anti-helix
The vertical helix runs vertically through the rim instead of across it. The anti-helix sits on the inner part of the ear, opposite the regular helix. Both are a bit less common, but very cool if you're looking for something different.
Which jewelry fits a helix piercing?
The jewelry makes your helix. On the rim you can wear roughly three things: a hoop that playfully hugs the rim, a straight stud with a stone or shape, or a delicate tiny stud that stays subtle. Which one you choose depends on the look you want and how far your piercing has healed.
This is where the material really comes down to quality. Cartilage moves a lot and heals slowly, so you don't want a plated layer that wears off after a few months. Solid gold doesn't tarnish, is gentle on your skin and keeps sparkling for years. The helix piercings from Eline Rosina are made of 14k recycled gold, with options in hoops, studs and tiny studs. Want extra sparkle? Have a look at the diamond piercings. And to bring your whole ear together, the 14k solid gold piercings and huggies have everything you need to finish your ear stack.
Not sure how to combine it with your other piercings? Our article on styling tragus and helix piercings is packed with examples.
What size is a helix piercing?
A helix is usually pierced with a post thickness of 1.2 mm. With a fresh piercing the jewelry is a bit longer, often around 6 to 8 mm, so there's room for slight swelling in the first weeks. Once everything has healed, you can switch to a shorter post that sits closer to your ear. Always have your piercer check the right size, because every ear is different.
Getting a helix pierced and upgrading afterwards
Always have a helix pierced with a needle by a professional piercer, never shot with a gun. A needle makes a clean opening in the cartilage, while a piercing gun damages the tissue. Most piercers start with a neutral starter post, because a fresh cartilage piercing needs rest to heal. The best moment comes after that: as soon as your helix has healed, you switch to the jewelry you really want to wear. That's the moment to upgrade to solid gold.
How much does a helix piercing cost?
The cost of a helix piercing comes in two parts: the piercing at the studio and the jewelry. The piercing itself usually costs around 25 to 50 euros. The real difference is in the jewelry, and that's where it pays to look beyond the starter. A titanium post is affordable, but the piece you'll wear for years afterwards deserves to be prettier. Solid 14k recycled gold doesn't tarnish and keeps sparkling, even in cartilage that moves a lot. That way you pay once for a helix piercing you won't need to replace any time soon.
Does a helix piercing hurt?
Honestly: you'll feel it. Because a helix goes through cartilage, it gives a sharper, shorter pinch than a hole in your soft earlobe. The intense moment is over in a few seconds. After that your ear may feel throbbing or tender for a few days, especially if you lie on it. That's part of it and fades on its own.
How long does healing take?
Expect a helix to take longer than a lobe piercing. On the outside it feels healed after about 3 to 6 months, but cartilage needs time and is often only fully healed after 6 to 12 months. During that time you don't change the jewelry yet and you keep up your aftercare. Patience really is your best friend here. Want to know more about healing times per piercing? Read when a piercing is healed.
Care and aftercare
Good aftercare largely determines whether your helix heals without problems. The basics are simple:
- Clean the piercing once or twice a day with a sterile saline solution.
- Keep your fingers off it and don't twist the jewelry.
- Keep soap, shampoo and hair products away from it as much as possible and rinse well.
- Sleep on your other ear as much as possible for the first few months.
- Only change the jewelry once everything has healed.
You'll find a detailed step-by-step plan in our guide on cleaning a piercing and in the general piercing aftercare.
Infected helix piercing or a bump?
A helix that stays red, warm and painful or leaks fluid may be infected. Sometimes a small bump appears next to the piercing, often irritation tissue (hypergranulation) caused by friction or jewelry that sits too tight. In both cases, keep rinsing with saline solution and don't touch it. If it gets worse or doesn't settle after a few days, see your piercer or GP. Never force the jewelry out yourself if it's infected.